Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, The United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious group of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 cities around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an unparalleled love for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing discussion from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the quality of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were fashioned. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover securely closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, offered in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is precise and demanding. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some but say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will encourage more people globally to learn these narratives and visit the city to taste the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
